Bengal’s weaving industry is a cornerstone of India’s opulent and varied textile heritage. It is renowned for its artistry and diversity. Each region within the vast land has contributed to this long-standing legacy, leaving a lasting impression not just in India but across the globe.
Right from the intricate Jamdani that traces its origins in erstwhile Bengal’s Dhaka and Bardhaman to Bishnupur’s rich Baluchari, Purulia’s stunning handlooms, Shantipur and Fulia’s delicate “taant” weaves and Murshidabad’s luxurious silks - Bengal has produced it all.
When I first started working with Bengal’s textiles I was an absolute novice. Learning about the different techniques, weaves, and textiles was an enriching experience. I was left humbled by the majesty, dedication and beauty of each weave. I was instantly drawn to the brilliance of the art and artists. Since then, my aim has always been to champion Bengal’s different weaves and showcase its brilliance to the world. And while I choose to focus my brand’s work on the Jamdani a little more, here are some of Bengal’s other majestic weaves that have left a lasting impression on me.
The Delicate Dhonekhali
Known for its distinctive weaving style, the Dhonekhali saree originated in the small town of Dhonekhali in West Bengal’s Hooghly district. What makes the saree unique is the fine cotton threads delicately interlaced onto traditional handlooms, giving it a paper-thin texture.
In the early 19th century, the saree was predominantly designed for local use by rural Bengali women. Traditionally woven using pure cotton, the saree’s breathable fabric was ideal for the hot and humid Bengal climate.
As word spread, the Dhonekhali weave began attracting the attention of metropolitan Bengali women and slowly became a staple piece of clothing in both rural and urban Bengal. Even the British officers visiting Bengal with their families were taken aback by the fabric’s ability to adapt to changing times.
The Dhonekhali weave first gained prominence during the post-independence era when the Indian government decided to preserve and promote traditional handicrafts. Over the years, the saree transformed from a simple everyday garment to a much sought-after piece reflecting Bengal’s rich and blooming textile heritage.
Its colour palette has seen a distinct change over time. While historically these handloom sarees were usually “kora,” or a shade of natural grey with a basic red or black border, weavers slowly began incorporating decorative border designs by the 1950s, adding newer designs and trends to the traditional ones.
The saree’s distinct charm lies primarily in its subtle design elements, further highlighted by minimalist decorative borders, stripes, and patterns. It is woven with the help of a dobby and has an 80 to 100 cotton thread count.
The weave is compact and contains contrasting borders called “maatha paar” or the “Beluaari paar.” They are usually in colours like red, black, purple, or orange. The pallu features a traditional “khejuri churi” or “dhan shish” extra-weft weave that sets it apart from Bengal’s other sarees.
The Dhonekhali saree is a piece of heritage that’s loved not just in India but across the globe. Its significant growth is symbolic of the endless dedication of generations of Bengal’s weavers to creating a legacy of their own.
The Gorgeous Jamdani
The stunning Jamdani saree's name comes from combining two Persian words: ‘Jam’, meaning flower, and ‘Dani’, meaning vase. The Jamdani’s origins in erstwhile Bengal are steeped in royalty, with traces in the historical cities of Dhaka and Bardhaman.
The story of the Jamdani weave dates back to the 16th-century Mughal courts when Bengali weavers were encouraged to create elaborate motifs suitable for nobility. As the Mughals’ fondness for the fabric grew, Jamdani became an essential part of the aristocratic wardrobe.
Known for its intricate floral motifs, the uniqueness of the Jamdani lies in its weaving process, which is done entirely by hand using wooden looms. Famous for its ‘supplementary weft’ or the extra weft weave, the Jamdani, unlike other weaves, has its design created directly on the loom without the help of sketches.
The weaving process requires expert weavers to utilise individual threads to create motifs over a translucent cotton or muslin base. A delicate and detailed labour of love, a single saree with an ethereal textured pattern on soft cotton fabric usually takes months to complete.
However, despite its brilliance, the Jamdani has had its fair share of challenges, from facing colonial exploitation that led to the mass production of textiles to experiencing a steady decline in local craftsmanship. The weave eventually saw a revival in the 20th century when both designers and artists began to acknowledge its cultural and artistic significance.
In 2013, the Jamdani found further prominence worldwide when it was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Today, this saree is highly sought after, finding a place in modern wardrobes for its elegance and sophistication. The Jamdani is a testament to the skill and heritage of weavers and is a timeless piece that preserves within each of its threads the vast history of the land of Bengal.
The Brilliant Bishnupuri Silk
The Bishnupuri Silk traces its roots back to Bishnupur, a culturally rich town in West Bengal’s Bankura district. A land famous for its stunning terracotta temples and being home to the
School of Hindustani Music, Bishnupur’s love story with silk weaving began in the early 18th century under the Malla dynasty.
The local weavers would draw inspiration from the region’s lush landscapes and marvellous temples to begin their small and intricate craft. Being great patrons of art and culture, the royals further encouraged the weavers to explore newer motifs and techniques that would shed light on the area’s massive cultural depth. The demand for this weave grew so significantly that, by the 18th and 19th centuries, the East India Company had expressed interest in trading Bishnupuri silk.
The sarees are made using pure mulberry silk, which is renowned for its extremely smooth texture. It is very lightweight, making it both comfortable and elegant to wear. In fact, an aspect of the Bishnupuri Silk that sets it apart is the delicate artistry that goes into its designs.
As time progressed, these sarees became well-known for their rich colours, achieved using traditional dyeing techniques that added further depth and vibrancy to the fabric. The beauty of the Bishnupuri Silk lay in its stunning durability, soft touch, and luxurious finish. And while the saree faced competition from cheaper variants in later years, it eventually regained its standing.
These sarees are often adorned with skillfully woven and hand-printed motifs that reflect Bengal’s rich heritage. Whether worn during special occasions or kept aside as treasured heirlooms, the Bishnupuri Silk continues to remain beloved, not just in Bengal but around the world.
The Stunning Shantipuri
The story of the Shantipuri saree dates back over 500 years and begins in West Bengal’s Nadia district, in the quaint little town of Shantipur. While Bengali weavers honed their craft for generations, it was under the rule of Nadia Raja Rudra Roy and the subsequent Mughal dynasty that the handloom weave of Shantipur further gained traction as a traditional industry.
The speciality of the Shantipuri saree is its 100x100 thread count, which happens to be a rarity in sarees. This is what gives the textile its rich and unique feel. The saree is adorned with finely textured geometric motifs called “butis.” These motifs mostly draw inspiration from nature.
The saree’s distinguished “taant” or weave is an extremely labour-intensive process that the specialised “tantis” or weavers work on to create works of art. Its “paar” or border often incorporates zari work, checks, and stripes, adding further charm to it.
The Shantipuri saree saw a surge in popularity across Bengal during the British colonial era due to its light and breathable quality and elegant look, making it ideal for the Bengali ‘Bhodrolok’ womenfolk. Sadly, in the years that followed, the success of the saree temporarily declined with cheaper, machine-made fabrics making their presence felt.
However, in the recent decade, the weave has seen a revival, with weavers championing the saree’s cultural importance and understated elegance. The local government and artisan collectives have also played a significant role in not only preserving the craft but also showcasing its brilliance to the world.
Today, the Shantipuri is beloved not just by Bengalis in Bengal but also by the diaspora, who adore the weave for its heritage and sophistication. Suitable for both casual and formal events, the saree is a testament to the skill and artistry that Shantipur’s weavers tirelessly worked to champion several decades ago.
The Royal Neelambori
The regal Neelambori finds its origins in the city of Fulia, in West Bengal’s Nadia district. The saree derives its name from two Sanskrit words: “Neel” and “Ambari,” which translate to blue and cloth, respectively.
True to its name, the Neelambori usually has a deep navy blue hue, and its “pallu” is mostly decorated with stripes of varying thickness. Called “Sajanshoi,” these stripes mostly feature colours that complement those on the borders. Several sarees also contain embroidered starry patterns on the border, giving it the mystical appearance of a well-lit night sky.
The unique feature of the Neelambori lies in the quality of its dyeing and the overall finesse of the yarn. The beautiful yet delicate fine handspun yarn used for weaving the saree has a count of 250-300, which gives it a light, powdery texture. Cotton and silk yarn are used on the border as an extra warp. An interesting feature of the Neelambori is, that it is woven with the “dorookha” technique, which ensures that both sides of the saree look the same.
The Neelambori’s finishing is also quite unique. When sizing the warp yarn, weavers apply sago or popped rice paste to it. This is a continuous process and is done by fixing the saree to a frame.
Like several of Bengal’s heritage weaves, the Neelambori also went through a period of decline when machine-made textiles began to take over the indigenous handloom industry. It was through the collaborative efforts of saree patrons, weavers, artisans, and designers that this heritage weave once again saw a revival.
Today, the Neelambori is a saree sought not only for its cultural significance but also for being an embodiment of Bengal’s rich textile history, which continues to prosper to this day.
The Alluring Garod
Traditionally worn by Bengali women during festivities and auspicious occasions, the Garod silk’s inception occurred in West Bengal’s Murshidabad district. The word “Garad” in Bengali means ‘white,’ and the saree is woven with the help of de-gummed undyed silk yarn. This keeps the fabric’s purity intact and gives it its natural colour.
The saree usually goes through a six-step weaving process. Pure mulberry silk is chosen as the foundation material. Then comes the spinning process, which can be both traditional and modern. This step turns the silk into a fine yarn.
The next stage is the weaving. Expert weavers meticulously interlace the yarns into specific patterns with the help of traditional techniques. Then comes the border embellishment, which adds further splendour to the already gorgeous piece. The final step is the washing process, which gives it a crisp texture.
The colour of a traditional Garod saree is usually off-white, the shade of natural mulberry silk. Along with the off-white colour, it is often distinguished by a plain red border adorned with small paisley motifs. Over time, variations of the traditional Garod have come into being, with pieces now being designed in delicate motifs and striped borders. The newer variants also contain colour, as the sarees are woven with dyed threads.
The Garod silk has always been the true definition of subtle grandeur. In the years gone by, queens and womenfolk in aristocratic families, such as those belonging to Bengali zamindar households, would drape themselves in Garod sarees to perform activities of religious significance.
However, much before Bengal’s aristocrats, the saree had captured the interest of the Mughal rulers. Famous for their appreciation of fine craftsmanship, the Mughals had chosen to utilise Bengal’s rich silk weaving to create an attire that would exude simplicity while being regal and aesthetic.
In the present day, the Garod saree has managed to transcend boundaries, making itself accessible to women of diverse social standings. Its understated beauty and elegance have continued to make it a sought-after choice of attire across generations.
The Traditional Begumpuri
A summer must-have, the Begumpuri weaving technique’s origin lies in Begumpur, a small census town in West Bengal’s Hoogly district. It is one of the biggest cotton-weaving centres, famous for its cotton sarees and dhotis.
The Begumpuri weave is characterised by its bright colours, stunning contrasting borders, and traditional and floral motifs that are woven with the help of an extra weft. What sets the Begumpuri saree apart from its contemporaries is its stunning border designs and the intricate stripes that run all over the body, along with the serrated edge motif in red and black.
Each of the border designs, whether it is the “Naksha” to “Ganga Jamuna” or temple, is unique in its own right. Commonly referred to as “Maathapaar” or “Beluaaripaar,” the weave has a very similar structure to the North East weave.
The process of bringing a Begumpuri to life is quite time-consuming, and getting the perfect texture and drape requires the finest raw materials.
Then the yarn gets washed, boiled, and bleached before being washed again. Finally, it is starched and dyed before being set on the loom. The saree has 42 counts of mill-spun yarn, 40 reed, and 60 peel, which gives it a unique texture. Depending on the design, a Begumpuri takes anywhere between 1 to 6 days to complete.
The saree, often referred to as the “Maathapaar piece,” comes with the least bit of ornamentation, making it extremely minimalistic yet elegant to look at.
Today, the Begumpuri, with its glorious 250-year-old history, has managed to stand the test of time and found a place amongst some of Bengal’s finest weaves. While the original piece has gone through trial and error and has had colours, patterns, and motifs added to it, the love for the attire continues to be a favourite of the Bengali woman.
The Remarkable Baluchori
The history of the Baluchori is quite interesting. In the year 1704 the first Nawab of Bengal, Murshid Quli Khan, decided to change his capital city from Dhaka to Murshidabad. It was during this period of transition that he brought along his weavers to settle them in Murshidabad’s Baluchor village, from where the saree gets its name.
Sadly, when the Ganga flooded and submerged the village, several weavers moved around 200 km away to Bankura’s Bishnupur, where the industry was set up anew. This migration helped them develop a unique style of art in the saree industry under the Malla dynasty. The saree’s production continues there to this day.
The making of the Baluchori saree is a tedious process. It starts with the cultivation of silkworms that are fed with mulberry leaves to boost their size. After the cocoon is spun, it gets immersed in hot water. The raw silk is then processed. To give it a soft texture the yarn gets boiled in a mixture of soda and soap. Then it gets acid colour dye, based on the saree’s requirement.
The saree is then stretched by hand to make it crisper. This is followed by the motifs that are drawn onto graph papers, coloured, and punched with cards. Thereafter, the weaving officially commences. The Baluchori is printed using the “jala technique.” This weft-weaving method uses an attachment called ‘jala’ to create intricate patterns on a piece of fabric. The whole process is quite elaborate and can take up to several weeks to reach completion.
Initially, the motifs were floral and paisley-based, but the design eventually evolved into something much more unique. Now, the stunning sarees boast motifs of traditional Hindu religious texts and folk tales. The inspiration behind this is the mythological stories that are engraved in the famous Terracotta temples of Bishnupur.
Even though there is not much variety in the weaving technique or silk, the distinguishing factor of the Baluchori can be found in the threads that are used in the weave. The Resham Baluchori is the simplest, and the single-colour threads are used to weave a complete design pattern.
The Meenakari Baluchori has threads in two or more colours. These are usually accompanied by Meenakari work, which gives the saree a gorgeous and rich look. Meanwhile, the Swarnachari Baluchori has gold and silver-coloured threads.
The price of a Baluchori primarily depends on the cost of the threads, the complexity of the design, and the hard work, effort, skills, and dedication of the weavers.
Despite going through a period of decline under the Mughal and Malla dynasties, the Baluchori weave has managed to revive itself, thanks to its elaborate designs that are a true representation of elegance. The saree stands as a testament to the cultural heritage of Bengal and its ownership, a matter of immense pride and privilege.
The Simplistic Matha
A saree with a rich and powerful backstory, the Matha saree hails from its namesake Matha, a small village in West Bengal’s Purulia district. The Matha’s narrative can be traced back to the indigenous communities of Purulia. Distinguished due to its earthy and simple aesthetics, the saree was initially a preferred attire for rural and indigenous women.
A plain woven saree, the Matha was initially woven by the locals using local yarn for local use. It was kept white with a basic red border accompanying it. However, in recent times, the Matha has seen an evolution with the yarns being dyed using natural colours, available to weavers.
To make it suitable for Bengal’s summers, the saree was woven with thick cotton, also called “desi” cotton. The weaving technique used fine yarns to ensure the saree’s durability. The Matha saree’s understated charm lay in its plain borders, unique colour combinations such as soft reds, greens, off-whites, browns, and beiges, and minimalistic motifs that were designed as inspiration from the region's rich tribal art. It was the Matha’s minimalism that made it such a favourite even for the urban Bengali.
A saree that came into being as a necessity, today the Matha saree stands testament to the resilience of Purulia’s rich indigenous culture and heritage. What was initially designed for the rural masses of a small village has found love and acceptance much beyond. A true piece of ethnic and traditional attire, the Matha remains a timeless classic.
The Vintage Dhakaibheeti
The last one on our list, the Dhakaibheeti is a vintage piece making a strong comeback. Originating from erstwhile Bengal’s Dhaka, from where the saree gets its name, the Dhakaibheeti is a stunning handwoven saree that has lost significance over time but is making a slow revival. Currently produced in Shantipur, the piece is woven using delicate silk, cotton and cotton-silk threads and often incorporates motifs that draw inspiration from folklore, nature and religion.
The Dhakaibheeti’s distinctive patterns often contain subtle floral designs, geometric shapes and Bengali motifs, similar to the “taant” weave. Its durable nature makes it ideal for the
humid Bengal climate. Its saree’s fabric has a fine soft texture and was primarily worn by the affluent class in the bygone era.
The signature weaving technique of the Dhakaibheeti sees the weft threads get interwoven with warp, creating a slightly raised effect that further adds a unique texture to the fabric. It is the double-sided extra warp weave that makes the saree so special. The finely woven borders further enhance its overall charm.
While the Dhakaibheeti went through a period of sharp decline after the partition of Bengal, weavers, artists and designers today are trying to work out ways to reintroduce the saree into the market again. Another one of Bengal’s rich cultural heritage and craftsmanship, the saree has a lot to offer for those looking for something a little unique, with a touch of antique.
